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How to read a cat food label: a quick guide for owners

What on the packaging really matters and what is just marketing: complete vs complementary, life stage, ingredients, calories and manufacturer contacts.

Published 4 min read

A kitten eating from a shallow ceramic bowl, with a water bowl nearby

Packaging is both an ad and an instruction sheet

A pet food label does two jobs: it carries required information that genuinely helps you choose a diet, and it carries marketing designed to sell the bag. The World Small Animal Veterinary Association (WSAVA) makes a point of this in its guidelines on selecting pet foods: some words on the packaging, such as "holistic" or "premium," aren't regulated and tell you very little about nutritional value. So skip the big print on the front and read the small print on the back.

Complete or complementary?

The first thing to look for is a statement saying whether the food is complete. A complete food contains everything your cat needs and can form the basis of its diet. If the label says "complementary," "supplementary" or "for intermittent feeding," it's a treat or an add-on, not a main meal. WSAVA advises that such products should make up only a small part of the diet — roughly 10% or less.

Which life stage?

Kittens need food formulated for growth. Look for wording such as "for kittens" or "for all life stages": as WSAVA explains, all-life-stage foods are formulated to cover growth too. Food for adult or senior cats isn't right for a kitten.

It's a good sign when the manufacturer states that the food meets nutrient guidelines — the European FEDIAF or the American AAFCO. Some labels also say how this was established: by formulation or by feeding trials.

Ingredients: what they tell you and what they don't

Most owners look at the ingredient list first. It is useful: ingredients are usually listed in descending order of proportion, and it can help you spot something your cat doesn't tolerate well. But WSAVA warns that the ingredient list says nothing about ingredient quality and can be very misleading about the overall quality of a food. So don't pick a food just because of what comes first on the list.

Analytical constituents and moisture

The "analytical constituents" section lists protein, fat, fiber, ash and moisture. You can't compare these figures directly between dry and wet food: most of the weight of wet food is water, so its protein percentage looks lower, even though on a dry matter basis it may be comparable. If you'd like to compare two foods, ask your vet to help.

Calories

Knowing the calorie content makes it easier to avoid overfeeding. According to WSAVA, calorie information is only required on pet food labels in the US, so many packages won't show it. If it's missing, you can ask the manufacturer.

Feeding guides are only a starting point

The feeding table on the package is a guide, not a rule. What an individual kitten needs depends on its age, activity level, whether it's neutered and its own metabolism. Weigh your kitten regularly and check with your vet that it's growing well. Excess weight isn't good for any cat, so adjust portions with your vet's help as needed.

Who makes it, and how to reach them

WSAVA recommends checking for the manufacturer's contact details — a phone number or email address where you can ask questions, for example about nutrient levels not shown on the label. Also note wording like "made for" or "distributed by": it means the food may be produced by a third-party manufacturer. If a manufacturer can't or won't answer your questions, be cautious about that brand.

Storing food properly

Even a good food can spoil if it's stored badly. Check the best-before date when you buy it and before you serve it. Keep dry food in tightly closed packaging somewhere cool and dry, out of direct sunlight. Cover an opened can or pouch of wet food, keep it in the fridge and use it within the time the manufacturer specifies; let it come back to room temperature before serving. Don't keep wet food left over in the bowl for the next meal.

If you decide to switch foods

For the first few days after the move, feed your kitten the same food it's used to: a sudden change of diet on top of the stress of moving can upset its stomach. Switch to a new food gradually, over about a week: start by mixing a little of the new food into the old, then increase its share a bit each day. You'll find a few tips on routine and bowls in “Care and feeding”.

The takeaway

When choosing a food, look for the word "complete," check that it suits your kitten's life stage, ignore the marketing buzzwords and don't judge by the ingredient list alone. If in doubt, show the label to your vet, who can help you choose the right diet for your kitten.

Many breeds. Many personalities. One big love.Kittens